Women's Institute Isle of Wight Village Book

Chale

Picture of Walpan Farm House

Chale, referred to in Domesday Book as Cela, also comprises Chale Green and Blackgang; it lies at the foot of St. Catherine's Down, enjoying perhaps the finest panoramic coastline scenery in Southern England.

The Parish Church of St. Andrew was dedicated in 1114 by William Gifford, Bishop of Winchester. The fine tower dates from the 15th century, and within the Church three arches of simple but beautiful design separate the nave from the South aisle.

Mentioned in Domesday Book are three manors, Chale, Gotten and Walpan. Chale Abbey farmhouse is one of the most interesting domestic buildings in the Island, having been constructed round a mediaeval Hall. The house was built in the 14th century by John de Langford, Constable of Carisbrooke Castle and Warden of the Island, as a great hall with an undercroft. The building has, of course, been extensively altered through the centuries, and the 14th century roof was removed in 1845, but much of the original construction can still be traced. Chale "Abbey" appears to be a Victorian misnomer, probably induced by the ecclesiastical appearance of the north window of the hall.

Gotton (Godyten) lies tucked away under the Down to the north- east. In 1314 Walter de Godyton was responsible for building the Oratory on St. Catherine's Down; this was a penance laid on him by the Church for having seized as "wreck of the sea" some wine intended for a monastery. Thus the first lighthouse in the district came into being, as a brazier was kept burning at night in the tower, which is all that now remains of the Oratory. It is known locally as the Pepper-pot, and nearby is the Salt Cellar – the walls of another lighthouse begun in 1785 by Trinity House, but abandoned uncompleted because of the thick fog which so often covers the Down.

Between the Church and the sea is the ancient homestead of Walpan, which Stone describes as hardly worthy of notice; yet at the time of the Conquest it was one of three small manors held by the King. It was a typical small-holder's dwelling, and passed in later years into the possession of Winchester College, who sold it in 1968. The house, not then being required, was allowed to decay, until it was rescued by the new owners who have succeeded in restoring the main part of the little building, adding a new wing built out of stones and tiles from the ruins of the old brewhouse and outbuildings. Four of the ancient fireplaces, and some of the original mud and wattle walls remain in the present house.

In the days of sail Chale Bay bore a terrible reputation, because of the number of ships driven ashore there. One such wreck occurred in October, 1836, when the East Indiaman Clarendon grounded in the Bay during a great storm, and was smashed to pieces in a few minutes with the loss of all but three of her company. The inn, then known as "The White Mouse", was afterwards enlarged, partly with timbers salvaged from this wreck, and its name was changed to "The Clarendon".

Another local inn, the "Star" at Chale Green, was known in years gone by as Sprake's Brewery. It was started in 1833 by Robert Sprake and handed down through four generations of the family. It was "good old-fashioned beer", made from local-grown hops and barley in a small brewhouse at the side of the road. At first supplied only to the villagers it soon became better known, and was delivered all over the Island. In the old brewhouse are preserved relics of smuggling days, including a rusty candle lantern which was used for signalling from the cliffs to the smugglers at sea; and a cleverly constructed pump, which worked through a hole in the hearthstone to draw up liquor from a cask hidden below, whilst the family were seated in the chimney corner. The first Brewer's licence issued for the house shows that the excise duty on beer at that time was 6d. per 36-gallon cask, as compared with £5 in 1928 when the business was sold – today, £11 or £12.

It is well known that Chale and Blackgang were the haunts of many smugglers, who used all manner of devices to conceal their contraband, even hiding tubs in the box-tombs in the churchyard when the Excise men were too hard on their heels.

Blackgang is now famous for the Chine, which has become one of the main tourist attractions of the Island. The gardens look out over the magnificent coastline extending to the Needles, and in clear weather, to Bournemouth. The Chine is floodlit during the summer season, making a fascinating spectacle.

Unfortunately, both Chale and Blackgang have suffered from landslips caused by the "blue slipper", and erosion by the sea. Years ago a large house called "Southlands" stood east of the mouth of Blackgang Chine, with a road leading down to it, but this has all disappeared. The Sandrock spring, which had a considerable iron content, was discovered in 1800 by a Newport doctor. It was enclosed in a small gabled building and many people, including the future Queen Victoria, came to drink the water – this has all slipped away, though the spring can still be found.

Near the road leading from Blackgang to the Landslip is a Shakespeare Memorial, built in the 19th century by Professor Letts of the well-known diary firm, who lived at Southview House, which has now been cut off from the village by the destruction of the road.

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